Welcome to the vibrant and unapologetic world of gyaru fashion! This iconic Japanese street style is more than just clothing; it’s a bold statement of self-expression, confidence, and rebellion against traditional beauty standards. Originating in the 1970s and reaching its peak in the 1990s and 2000s, gyaru (a Japanese transliteration of the English word “gal”) is all about glamour, fun, and living life on your own terms. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about this fascinating subculture, from its history and core principles to its many substyles and how you can incorporate its elements into your own look. Get ready to explore a style defined by tanned skin, dramatic makeup, and fabulous hair.
Key Takeaways
- Gyaru fashion is a Japanese street style characterized by rebellious glamour, including tanned skin, bleached hair, and dramatic makeup.
- The style emerged in the 1970s and peaked in popularity during the 1990s and 2000s as a reaction against traditional Japanese norms.
- Core elements include “kogao” (small face) makeup techniques, extravagant hairstyles, and bold, often Western-inspired clothing.
- Numerous substyles exist, such as Kogal, Ganguro, Hime Gyaru, and Onee Gyaru, each with its own unique aesthetic.
- While its peak popularity has passed, gyaru continues to influence modern fashion and has seen a recent resurgence thanks to social media.
The Origins and History of Gyaru Fashion
The story of gyaru fashion begins in post-war Japan during the 1970s. It started as a youth-led rebellion against the strict, conservative social norms and beauty standards of the time. Young women began to challenge the traditional ideal of pale skin, dark hair, and modest behavior. Inspired by Western pop culture, particularly American teen movies and TV shows, they adopted a more liberated and flashy aesthetic.
The term “gyaru” itself was popularized by a 1970s fashion brand called “Gal” and its slogan, “I can’t live without men.” This initial phase was about embracing a fun, carefree, and slightly provocative attitude. It was a declaration of independence, showing that young women could define their own version of beauty and fun without conforming to societal expectations.
The movement truly exploded in the 1990s, centered in the bustling districts of Shibuya and Harajuku in Tokyo. This era saw the birth of the Kogal substyle, which became synonymous with the gyaru identity. High school girls, or kōkōsei, were the pioneers, customizing their school uniforms with shortened skirts, loose socks, and brand-name accessories. This was their way of reclaiming individuality within a structured environment. The rise of pop stars like Namie Amuro, with her tanned skin, long brown hair, and modern style, further fueled the gyaru fashion craze, making it a mainstream phenomenon that would dominate Japanese youth culture for the next decade.
Core Principles of the Gyaru Aesthetic
At its heart, gyaru fashion is built on a foundation of confidence and hyper-feminine glamour. It’s about standing out, not blending in. One of the most defining features is the emphasis on a “kogao” or “small face” look, achieved through clever makeup techniques. This involves heavy contouring to create shadows, dramatic eye makeup to make the eyes appear larger and more doll-like, and specific hairstyles that frame the face. Big, bold eyes are a must, often enhanced with circle lenses, multiple layers of false eyelashes, and thick black eyeliner. This focus on the eyes makes them the central point of the face, creating a captivating and expressive look that is quintessentially gyaru.
Beyond makeup, hair is another critical component. Gyaru hairstyles are anything but subtle. They are typically voluminous, bleached or dyed in shades of blonde or light brown, and often elaborately styled in updos, curls, or with extensions. This is known as morimori (piled high) hair. The clothing itself pulls heavily from Western trends, favoring bright colors, animal prints, and designer logos. The goal is to create an overall image that is polished, glamorous, and intentionally over-the-top. It’s a celebration of artifice and the power to construct your own identity.
The Importance of Makeup in Gyaru
Makeup isn’t just an accessory in gyaru fashion; it’s a fundamental pillar of the entire look. The transformation is key. Gyaru makeup is an art form designed to completely reshape and enhance facial features, aiming for a doll-like or Westernized appearance. The eyes are the undisputed main event. Gyaru makeup artists use a combination of circle lenses to make the irises appear larger, white eyeliner on the lower waterline to open up the eye, and dark, heavy eyeliner on the top lid, often extended into a dramatic wing. False eyelashes are essential, with many gyaru applying multiple sets on both the top and bottom lids to achieve maximum volume and length.
This dramatic eye makeup is balanced with strong contouring and highlighting to sculpt the face. The goal is to create the illusion of a smaller, more V-shaped face and a higher nose bridge. This is often paired with lighter concealer around the eyes and nose to create contrast, a technique sometimes called “reverse panda.” Lips are usually kept more subdued with a nude or light pink gloss to ensure the eyes remain the focal point. This meticulous and transformative approach to makeup is what gives gyaru fashion its distinctive and instantly recognizable face.
Signature Hairstyles: More is More
When it comes to gyaru hair, the philosophy is simple: go big or go home. Volume is everything. The most iconic gyaru hairstyles involve intricate styling, often referred to as sujimori. This style features carefully sculpted strands and curls that are teased and set with a large amount of hairspray to create a structured, almost architectural look. Hair is almost always dyed, with shades ranging from honey blonde and ash brown to platinum. Bleaching the hair was a direct act of defiance against the traditional Japanese beauty standard of straight, black hair, signaling a clear break from convention.
Elaborate updos, known as morimori, were also incredibly popular, especially in more glamorous substyles like Agejo. These hairstyles involved piling the hair high on top of the head in voluminous bouffants, curls, and intricate arrangements, often adorned with large bows, flowers, or tiaras. Hair extensions are commonly used to add both length and volume, allowing for even more dramatic and creative styling. Whether worn up or down, the hair is always perfectly coiffed, embodying the gyaru dedication to a polished and high-maintenance appearance.
Exploring the Diverse Substyles of Gyaru
While often seen as a single style, gyaru fashion is actually an umbrella term for a wide array of substyles, each with its own unique codes and aesthetics. This diversity allowed individuals to find a niche that best suited their personality, from the sweet and girly to the wild and rebellious. One of the earliest and most influential substyles was Kogal, characterized by high school students who customized their uniforms. They were the original trendsetters, pairing their school attire with loose socks, loafers, Burberry scarves, and luxury handbags. This mix of regulation and rebellion defined the early spirit of the movement and laid the groundwork for what was to come.
As the trend evolved, more extreme and distinct substyles emerged. The late 1990s gave rise to Ganguro, which took the tanned skin ideal to a new level with deep, dark tans, bleached hair, and white concealer used as lipstick and eyeshadow. This was a radical and shocking look that pushed the boundaries of the gyaru aesthetic even further. From Ganguro evolved Yamanba and Manba, which featured even darker tans, rainbow-colored hair, and stickers or glitter on the face. These substyles showcased the creativity and rebellious spirit at the core of gyaru fashion.
Ganguro, Yamanba, and Manba: The Extreme Side
For those who wanted to make the boldest statement possible, the Ganguro, Yamanba, and Manba substyles offered a way to completely break from the mainstream. Ganguro (literally “black face”) emerged in the late 1990s and became one of the most recognizable forms of gyaru fashion. Its followers sported deep, artificial tans, which were a stark contrast to the traditional Japanese value of pale skin. This was paired with bleached blonde or silver hair and dramatic makeup featuring white lipstick and eyeshadow. The look was shocking, loud, and designed to grab attention. It was a visual protest against conventional beauty norms, and its followers were often seen as rebels.
Yamanba and Manba took the Ganguro aesthetic to an even greater extreme. The name Yamanba is derived from a mountain hag in Japanese folklore, reflecting the wild and untamed nature of the style. The tan became even darker, almost black, and the makeup more theatrical. White makeup was applied like a mask around the eyes and on the nose, creating a “panda” look. Hair was often brightly colored in neon shades or decorated with hibiscus flowers, and outfits were loud and mismatched. Manba was very similar but often featured even more playful elements, like colorful stickers and accessories pasted onto the face. These substyles represented the peak of gyaru rebellion.
Hime Gyaru: The Princess Style
On the opposite end of the spectrum from the wildness of Manba is Hime Gyaru, or “Princess Gal.” This substyle is all about embodying a modern-day princess aesthetic. It is arguably the most expensive and high-maintenance of all the gyaru fashion substyles. Hime Gyaru is characterized by hyper-feminine and luxurious clothing, often in shades of pink and white. Dresses and skirts feature an abundance of lace, ruffles, bows, and floral prints. The silhouette is often inspired by Rococo and Victorian fashion, with bell-shaped skirts and corseted tops. The look is soft, romantic, and incredibly girly.
The princess theme extends to every detail. Hair is typically styled in voluminous, perfectly coiffed curls or elaborate updos, often adorned with tiaras, oversized bows, or roses. Makeup is still glamorous but softer than other gyaru styles, focusing on a sweet, doll-like appearance with pink blush and glossy lips. Brands like Jesus Diamante and Liz Lisa became synonymous with the Hime Gyaru look, offering extravagant dresses and accessories that catered to this opulent aesthetic. This style is less about rebellion and more about indulging in a fantasy of pure, unadulterated femininity and luxury.
Onee Gyaru and Rokku Gyaru: Mature and Edgy
As the original gyaru grew older, substyles evolved to suit a more mature audience. Onee Gyaru (“Older Sister Gal”) is a more sophisticated and toned-down version of gyaru fashion. It’s aimed at women in their 20s and 30s who still love the gyaru aesthetic but need a look that’s more appropriate for a professional environment or a more grown-up lifestyle. The style retains the core elements of glamour—perfectly styled hair, flawless makeup, and trendy clothing—but executes them in a more refined way. The colors are more muted, favoring neutrals, and the silhouettes are sleeker and more elegant. It’s a chic and sexy style that projects confidence and worldliness.
For those with a rebellious streak who found Hime Gyaru too sweet, Rokku Gyaru (“Rock Gal”) offered an edgy alternative. This substyle blends the glamour of gyaru with the aesthetics of rock and punk music. The color palette is darker, featuring a lot of black, red, and metallics. Common elements include leather jackets, ripped jeans, band t-shirts, plaid skirts, and chunky boots. The makeup is smokier and darker, and the accessories are edgier, with studs, chains, and silver jewelry. Rokku Gyaru proves that the gyaru fashion framework is incredibly versatile, able to merge seamlessly with other distinct fashion genres.
Gyaru Fashion Brands and Magazines
The gyaru fashion movement was heavily supported and shaped by a dedicated media and retail ecosystem. Magazines were the bibles of the subculture, providing endless inspiration, tutorials, and a sense of community. Publications like Egg, Popteen, Ranzuki, and Koakuma Ageha were essential reading for any gyaru. Egg was particularly influential, known for its street snaps and focus on the more extreme substyles like Ganguro and Manba. Popteen catered to a younger, more mainstream gyaru audience, while Koakuma Ageha focused on the glamorous Agejo (butterfly) style, popular among hostesses. These magazines created the trends, promoted the star models (karisuma moderu), and taught girls how to achieve the perfect gyaru look, from makeup to hair.
Alongside the magazines, certain fashion brands became synonymous with the gyaru look. Shibuya109, a towering department store in Tokyo, was the undisputed mecca of gyaru fashion. Its floors were packed with stores catering to every substyle imaginable. Brands like Cecil McBee, Lip Service, and D.I.A. offered sexy and trendy clothing for the Onee Gyaru crowd. Liz Lisa became the go-to for the sweet, feminine look of Hime Gyaru. Alba Rosa was famous for its hibiscus print designs, which were a staple for Ganguro and Yamanba. These brands didn’t just sell clothes; they sold an entire lifestyle, helping to solidify the gyaru identity.
The Decline and Modern Resurgence
By the late 2000s and early 2010s, the vibrant world of gyaru fashion began to fade. Several factors contributed to its decline. Fashion trends are cyclical, and a new, more natural, and understated aesthetic began to take hold in Japan. The rise of Korean pop culture and its associated fashion and beauty trends also offered a compelling alternative.
Economically, the high-maintenance lifestyle required by many gyaru substyles became less attainable for some during periods of economic stagnation. Many of the iconic gyaru magazines ceased publication, and the brands in Shibuya109 began to pivot to different styles, leaving a void where a thriving subculture once stood. The look that had once been a symbol of youthful rebellion started to be seen as dated.
However, reports of its death were greatly exaggerated. In recent years, gyaru fashion has been experiencing a significant revival, largely thanks to social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. A new generation, both in Japan and internationally, is discovering the style and falling in love with its bold, confident spirit. The #gyaru hashtag is filled with young people recreating classic gyaru looks, from Kogal to Manba. This resurgence is often tinged with nostalgia, referred to as the “Heisei era revival.” As trends from the early 2000s make a comeback globally, the distinctive aesthetic of gyaru feels fresh and exciting once again, proving that its rebellious glamour is truly timeless.
Gyaru’s Influence on Global Fashion and Beauty
The impact of gyaru fashion extends far beyond the streets of Shibuya. Its influence can be seen in various aspects of global fashion and beauty. The gyaru emphasis on dramatic eye makeup, for instance, helped popularize products like circle lenses and voluminous false eyelashes worldwide. The contouring techniques used to achieve the “small face” look predate the contouring craze that swept through Western beauty communities by several years. Many of the beauty tutorials found on platforms like YouTube today share a common ancestry with the step-by-step guides published in gyaru magazines two decades ago.
Furthermore, the spirit of subcultural fashion that gyaru embodies—using clothing and makeup to build a distinct identity and community—has inspired countless other style movements around the globe. It demonstrated how a hyper-specific, localized trend could create a powerful and enduring identity. You can see echoes of its influence in various e-girl and alternative styles popular today. Even mainstream fashion has borrowed elements, such as the love for animal prints, platform shoes, and ultra-glamorous aesthetics. For more insights on how trends evolve and are reported, publications like those found at siliconvalleytime.co.uk often track the life cycle of various cultural phenomena. Gyaru remains a fascinating case study in the power of youth culture to shape the visual landscape.
How to Incorporate Gyaru Into Your Style
Feeling inspired to add a touch of gyaru fashion to your own wardrobe? You don’t have to go full Manba to embrace the spirit of the style. You can start by incorporating small elements into your everyday look. Begin with the makeup. Experiment with making your eyes the focus by using a good eyeliner, a pair of fluffy false lashes, and maybe some shimmery eyeshadow. You could also try out circle lenses for a subtle but impactful change. Another easy way to get the look is through your hair. Try adding volume with a texturizing spray or experiment with a curling iron to create big, bouncy curls.
For your outfit, think about the core principles: fun, feminine, and a little flashy. Animal prints are a classic gyaru staple—a leopard print skirt or top can instantly add some gyaru flair. Don’t be afraid of bright colors and bold accessories. A cute handbag, a pair of platform sandals, or some statement jewelry can elevate a simple outfit. The key is to have fun and wear what makes you feel confident and glamorous. Gyaru fashion is all about self-expression, so mix and match elements to create a version that is uniquely you.
|
Substyle |
Key Features |
Common Brands |
|---|---|---|
|
Kogal |
Customized school uniforms, loose socks, designer scarves. |
Burberry, Louis Vuitton |
|
Ganguro |
Deep tan, bleached hair, white lipstick/eyeshadow. |
Alba Rosa, Cocolulu |
|
Hime Gyaru |
Princess-like dresses, pink/white, lace, ruffles, tiaras. |
Jesus Diamante, Liz Lisa |
|
Onee Gyaru |
Mature, sophisticated, sexy, neutral colors, sleek silhouettes. |
Cecil McBee, Lip Service |
|
Rokku Gyaru |
Rock/punk inspired, black, leather, studs, plaid. |
GOLDS Infinity, TutuHA |
Conclusion
Gyaru fashion is far more than just a fleeting trend. It is a powerful cultural movement that gave a voice to a generation of young Japanese women who wanted to define beauty and identity on their own terms. From its rebellious roots in the 1970s to its glamorous peak in the 2000s and its recent revival, gyaru has consistently been about confidence, self-expression, and the joy of transformation.
Its legacy lives on in the beauty techniques it popularized, the substyles it spawned, and the enduring message that fashion can be a tool for empowerment. Whether you’re drawn to the sweet fantasy of Hime Gyaru or the wild spirit of Ganguro, the world of gyaru offers a vibrant and exciting source of inspiration for anyone looking to stand out and have fun with their style.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Is gyaru fashion still popular in Japan?
While it is not as mainstream as it was in the 2000s, gyaru fashion is experiencing a revival, especially among younger people on social media. There is a dedicated community that keeps the style alive, and elements of it continue to influence Japanese street style.
Q2: Do you have to be Japanese to be a gyaru?
Absolutely not! Gyaru is a fashion style and subculture, not an ethnicity. People from all over the world embrace gyaru fashion. The community is generally very welcoming to anyone who appreciates the style and wants to participate respectfully.
Q3: Is it expensive to dress in gyaru style?
It can be, especially for substyles like Hime Gyaru that focus on specific, high-end brands. However, you can achieve a gyaru look on a budget. Many enthusiasts thrift for clothes, use more affordable makeup brands, and learn to style their own hair, proving that the spirit of gyaru is more about creativity than cost.
Q4: What is the difference between gyaru and lolita fashion?
Although both are Japanese street styles, they are very different. Gyaru fashion is about a sexy, glamorous, and modern look inspired by Western trends. Lolita fashion, on the other hand, is inspired by Victorian and Rococo aesthetics and focuses on a modest, doll-like silhouette with petticoats, bonnets, and blouses.
Q5: Where can I buy gyaru clothing today?
While many original gyaru brands no longer exist or have changed their style, you can find gyaru-style clothing from Japanese brands like Liz Lisa, D.I.A., and Cecil McBee through secondhand sites like Mercari Japan and Fril. Some current brands also offer items that fit the gyaru aesthetic. Many international fans also turn to fast-fashion retailers to find pieces that match the style.
